Nine Months in Syria

Below, I'll periodically post a narrative slice of my life in Syria: the places I visit, the people I meet, the food I eat, the Arabic I learn.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Tower of heads

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The tranquility of this park a block outside the old city walls belies its bloody history. Damascenes say that when the Mongols sacked Damas...
Monday, June 11, 2007

Another restaurant

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What to do with a large, deserted, half-crumbling, centuries-old Arabic-style courtyard house in the old city of Damascus? Turn it into a r...
Friday, June 08, 2007

The Jews of Damascus

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Amid the busy store fronts, the bustling markets, the twisting alleys of the old city and the drab apartment blocks of the new city, there i...
Wednesday, June 06, 2007

The National Museum

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Outside the National Museum, which houses a nice collection from Syria's ancient past, is a virtual graveyard of Roman urns, capitals an...
Tuesday, June 05, 2007

My breakfast

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The bread comes from down the street -- I walk to the baker every morning for a fresh raghif for 10 cents -- the lebeneh madabbleh (dried...
Wednesday, May 30, 2007

97 percent

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The billboards changed overnight from campaign to congratulations. This one reads: "Congratulations; Congratulations; Oh, our country;...
Tuesday, May 29, 2007

My new house

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Weery of the kitchen construction, the perpetual car horns from the busy street below my room, and the early-morning sun from the east-facin...
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